Paris Insiders Guide
Paris Insiders Guide
  • What's On

    What's On in Paris

    June 2025 in Paris
    July 2025 in Paris
    August 2025 in Paris
    September 2025 in Paris
    Paris Activities Month by Month
    • What's On

      What's On in Paris

      June 2025 in Paris
      July 2025 in Paris
      August 2025 in Paris
      September 2025 in Paris
      Paris Activities Month by Month
      Paris Events Calendar
      Museum Exhibitions Calendar

      Performances

      Paris Ballet Calendar
      Paris Opera Calendar

      Holidays

      Christmas in Paris
      Christmas Day in Paris
      New Years Eve
      New Years Day in Paris
      Easter in Paris
      Valentines Day in Paris
      Bastille Day Celebrations
      Christmas in Paris

      Christmas in Paris

    • What to See

      The Eiffel Tower

      Skip-the-Lines at the Eiffel Tower
      Visiting The Eiffel Tower
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      Paris Attractions

      The Top 8 Tourist Attractions
      5 Paris Itineraries
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      Monuments in Paris

      The Arc de Triomphe
      The Panthéon
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      Landmarks

      Palais Garnier Opera House
      Hotel de Ville – The City Hall
      See all…

      History Museums

      Cluny Museum Paris
      Arts et Metiers
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      The Louvre Museum

      Louvre Art Museum Tours
      Mona Lisa In The Louvre
      See all…

      Musée d'Orsay

      Get the Most from Your Visit
      Top 10 Van Goghs at d'Orsay
      See all…

      The Top Paris Museums

      Musée de l'Orangerie
      Centre Pompidou
      See all…

      Artist Museums

      Musée Picasso
      Rodin Museum Paris
      See all…

      Unusual Paris Museums

      Guimet Asian Arts Museum
      Galliera Fashion Museum
      See all…
      Louvre Art Museum Tours

      Louvre Art Museum Tours

    • What to Do

      Visiting Versailles

      Skip-The-Line Tours
      Guided Versailles Tours
      Versailles Bike Tours

      The Essential Day Trips

      Visit the Champagne Region
      D-Day Landing Beaches
      Monet's Gardens at Giverny
      See all…

      More Iconic Day Tours

      Mont Saint-Michel
      Monet + Van Gogh
      VIP Private Day Trips
      See all…

      What to Do in Paris

      10 Ways to Skip the Paris Lines
      5 Top Activities In The Marais
      1st Time Visitors Guide
      See all…

      Seine River Cruises

      Top 6 Paris Dinner Cruises
      Lunch & Brunch Cruises
      Cruises with Extras!

      Paris Hidden Gems

      Les Halles Paris
      Impressionists In Paris
      Arcades of Paris
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      Night In The City of Light

      The 6 Best Evenings In Paris
      Moulin Rouge
      See all…

      Paris City Tours

      The 6 Best City Tours
      Hop-on, Open-Top Buses
      See all…

      Walking Tours

      Top 10 Walking Tours
      Mysterious Walking Tours
      See all…
      Romantic Dinner Cruises

      Romantic Dinner Cruises

    • Where to Stay
      The Top Left Bank Hotels

      Where to Stay in Paris

      Where to Stay in Paris

      Top-Rated Hotels in the Marais
      The Best Left Bank Hotels
      10 Affordable 4-Star Hotels
      See All …

      Preferred 5-Star Hotels

      Fouquet's Paris
      Hotel Napoleon Paris
      Hotel Le Burgundy
      See All…

      Top Hotels Near…

      Saint-Germain-des-Prés
      The Eiffel Tower

      Small Hotels of Paris

      Latin Quarter Hotels
      Top-Rated Montmartre Hotels
      Favorite Designer Hotels
      See All…

      The Palaces of Paris

      Shangri-La Paris
      Hotel George V Paris
      The Royal Monceau
      See All…

      Affordable Hotels

      Ibis Hotels
      Les Hotels de Paris
      Best Western Hotels
      See All…
    • Eat & Drink
      Food & Wine Tour in Montmartre

      The Foods of Montmartre

      Food & Wine Activities

      Top 10 Food Experiences
      Paris Wine Tastings
      Chocolate Tours
      See All…

      Most Popular Paris Food

      10 Best Cheese Shops
      The Best Baguette in Paris
      Food Markets of Paris
      See All…

      Memorable Paris Dining

      L'Assaggio
      Best Paris Terraces
      Seine Dinner Cruise

      Best Paris Restaurants

      Le Jules Verne
      Astrance Paris
      Il Carpaccio
      See All…

      Paris Restaurant Guide

      How to Choose a Restaurant
      Bistros & Brasseries
      The Best Paris Bars
      See All…

      Bistros & Brasseries

      In the Marais
      On the Left Bank
      Historic Brasseries of Paris
      See All…

      Top-Rated Restaurants

      Michelin 3-Star Restaurants
      6 Michelin-Star Restaurants
      See All…
    • More Paris Fun
      Visit the Champagne Region

      Visit the Champagne Region

      Historic Churches

      Notre Dame Cathedral
      La Sainte Chapelle
      See all…

      Paris Miscellanea

      Napoleon's Paris
      Hemingway's Paris
      Medieval Paris
      See All…

      Visiting Burgundy

      VIP Burgundy Wine Tour
      Burgundy Hotels
      See all…

      You Ask, We Answer

      Paris Hotels for Christmas?
      Best Restaurants in the 8th?
      Best Way To Visit Versailles?
      See All…

      Paris Gardens & Parks

      Jardin des Tuileries
      Jardin des Plantes
      Palais Royal
      See all…

      Unusual Paris Sights

      Pere Lachaise Cemetery
      The Catacombs
      See all…

      Top Ten Lists

      10 Tips For Visiting Paris
      7 Vestiges of Roman Paris
      13 Hidden Places In Paris
      See All…

      Your Own Private Paris

      Private Tours of Paris
      Champagne & Shows
      See all…
    • Essentials
      Things to do in Paris

      What's On When You're Here

      Airports & Transfers

      Airport Transfers
      Paris Airports
      Airport Taxis

      Getting Around Paris

      The Paris Metro
      Paris Metro Tickets
      Paris Taxis
      See All…

      Paris Travel Guide

      Where To Stay In Paris
      Top 10 Tips For Travelers
      Choose The Perfect Hotel
      What to Pack for Paris
      See All…

      Paris Essentials

      What's On When You're Here
      Where to Stay in Paris
      Seine River Dinner Cruises
      Paris Restaurant Guide
      Visiting Versailles
      The Eiffel Tower
      The Louvre Museum

      Train Travel

      Train Travel From Paris
      Eurostar: London & Paris
      See All…

      Paris Arrondissements

      The Marais
      The Latin Quarter
      Saint-Germain-des-Pres
      See All…

    Paris in March 2012 – A Springtime Diary

    Any time is a good time to be in Paris, and that was true in March 2012, when we spent a month living on Boulevard Beaumarchais on the edge of the Marais. We were in City of Food for the annual Paris Cookbook Fair and the Gourmand Awards (more on that below), but we had plenty of time to enjoy la vie parisienne. The fair and the awards made the perfect excuse to spend another month in Paris, a month that started out as winter, but ended feeling like the best of Paris summers. Here are excerpts from our diary of the time, along with the photos we shot.

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    March 5 – Drinking Our Favorite Wine

    Bottles of Muscat de Beaumes de Venise in a Parisw apartment

    Our favorite sweet wine is Muscat de Beaumes de Venise from the Côtes-du-Rhone in southern France. In fact, if you've read our book (and we know you have), you'll remember that we made use of that very wine from our favorite producer — Domaine de Durban — to seal our wedding vows. Yep, we know how to set our priorities!

    However, we can no longer find the Durban back home. So naturally, one of the first things we do when we get to France is to find a wine store that sells the Durban Beaumes de Venise. First thing this morning, on our first day in Paris, we set out to track down un marchand de vins that stocks the wine. Luckily, only minutes away near Place de la République we discovered the charming Le Petit Bleu, a petit magasin that carries wine, fine foods, and other interesting goods.

    Now, with bottles of Domaine de Durban nestled safely in our refrigerator, it feels like we're home again.

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    KW

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    Browse our hand-picked Paris hotel deals with real-time discounts of up to 20%. Stay in the Marais, Saint Germain, the Latin Quarter, the Left Bank near the Eiffel Tower… every arrondissement is on the list.

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    March 7 – Our Book #1 in North America !

    The cover of the book, How to Cook Bouillabaisse in 37 Easy Steps

    The Paris Cookbook Fair is an annual event in which cookbooks from around the world are displayed, marketed, and compete for awards. The night before the cookbook fair — last night — at the famous theater, Folies Bergere, the annual International Gourmand Cookbook Awards ceremony was held, and it was there we learned that our book, How to Cook Bouillabaisse in 37 Easy Steps, placed first in North American books in the category French Cuisine. The world grand prize went to a French book (naturally!), but we came ahead of all the other American and Canadian books in the group. It was a lot of fun being at the iconic theatre with the other finalists from all over the globe.

    March 9 – Bob Dylan 1961 to 1966

    Entrance to Cite de la Musique with the poster annoucing the Bob Dylan exhibition

    Parc de Villette is located in the 19th Arrondissement in northeast Paris. What was once the location of huge slaughterhouses and the national wholesale meat market of France is today a family-themed park with two large museums, bicycle paths, canal boat trips, and a large exhibition space.

    Cité de la Musique, located at Villette, is a music museum where you can see and listen to instruments from 1,000 years of musical history. The museum also hosts kids' programs, concerts, and lectures on music. This month (March 2012) Cité de la Musique has mounted a Bob Dylan retrospective covering the years 1961 to 1966. A lot changed in folk & rock music in that period, and Dylan was a major influence and trendsetter.

    In photos, films, concert footage, and displays of some of the actual instruments played by musicians of the period, the history of that fascinating half-decade comes back to life. Highlights include Dylan's high school yearbooks, film of a a live performance of Like a Rolling Stone, and Pete Seeger's banjo.

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    The Eiffel Tower and the Seine River seen from a dinner cruise boat

    Paris Dinner Cruises on the Seine

    Dine in style as you glide past the Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame, and the Louvre on a magical Seine River cruise. Gourmet food, champagne, and Paris lit up at night – it’s unforgettable.

    Reserve your table…

    Paris Dinner Cruises on the Seine

    Dine in style as you glide past the Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame, and the Louvre on a magical Seine River cruise. Gourmet food, champagne, and Paris lit up at night – it’s unforgettable.

    Reserve your table…

    March 10 – Wine Shop, Wine Bar & Restaurant

    A view through the windows of restaurant Albion

    Our friend Julie put us in touch with Stephanie, a publicist whose marketing company specializes in food and wine. Right way we had something in common! We were jumped at the change when New York & Paris-based Stephanie suggested we go to a new Paris restaurant, Albion.

    Albion covers all the wine bases. It is a wine store, it's a wine bar, and it's also a restaurant that serves simple, delicious food paired with wines sold at retail prices! For instance, with our entrée of risotto calamari with squid ink, we drank a white Chenin (L'Echalier 2010) that was both crisp and wonderfully fruity, and cost less than 20 Euros. Albion occupies a large, rectangular room, with wooden floors. Shelves of wine for sale line the walls. It's rustic, the French would call it convivial — "nice" or "friendly". The service is also fresh and friendly, in a casual way.

    • 80 Rue du Faubourg Poissonnière
    • 10th Arrondissement

    March 12 – Au Revoir Vieux Ritz

    A waiter pours a glass of wine on the terrace of the Ritz Hotel Paris in 2012

    Today we had tea with Laure France, director of École Ritz-Escoffier, the legendary cooking school at the legendary Ritz Hotel Paris. Laure told us that her son is now two years old, but the big news is that the Ritz Hotel is going to be closed for more than two years, starting in just a few months. The Ritz, it seems, needs a facelift to stay current with the standards of the current crop of Palace hotels in Paris, such as the Bristol, the Hotel George V, and the Meurice.

    But not to worry, Laure assured us, the Ritz will open better than ever once the work is completed. We're holding our breath and waiting for November 2014, when the Ritz doors open again.

    [Note: It's a good thing we didn't actually try to hold our breath, since the Ritz didn't reopen until June 2016 — 18 months late and millions of Euros over budget. But, Laure was right in that the new Ritz Hotel is spectacular, even though is did not receive the Palace distinction.]

    March 14 – Palais Garnier

    The magnificent arches of the balconies at Palais Garnier in Paris

    The stunning Beaux-Arts Paris opera house, Palais Garnier, is as spectacular as when it opened on January 5, 1875. The building itself overlooks and dominates the Place de la Opera in the center of Paris. In recent years the facade has been cleaned, repaired and restored to its sparkling, golden glory. Inside, grand marble staircases take you up the the seating levels, and the marble and gilt columns are a wonder to behold. There's a Grand Salon for dinners and special events decorated with gold, silver, and huge chandeliers.

    Nowadays grand operas are staged at the new Paris opera house, Opera de la Bastille. At Palais Garnier you can take in musicals, light operas, and, as we did last night, ballet, when we saw a work by choreographer Jerome Robbins.

    Palais Garnier – Schedule & Tickets

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    Woman holidng a baguette on a Marais food tour

    Taste Your Way Through The Marais

    Stroll the cobbled streets of the Marais while tasting your way through cheese shops, bakeries, wine cellars, and hidden gems. A local expert leads the way — and keeps the wine flowing.

    Your Paris Food Story Starts Here…

    Taste Your Way Through The Marais

    Stroll the cobbled streets of the Marais while tasting your way through cheese shops, bakeries, wine cellars, and hidden gems. A local expert leads the way — and keeps the wine flowing.

    Your Paris Food Story Starts Here…

    March 16 – Cité des Sciences

    Exterior of the Cite; des Sciences science museum

    Today we traveled back to Parc de la Villette in northeastern Paris to visit the other big museum located there. The Cité des Sciences. This museum is run by the same team who runs Palais de la Decouverte in central Paris, but it's much different, and much bigger. There are huge spaces given over to temporary exhibits such as the current Shadow & Light and The Ocean, The Climate & Us.

    But today we visited a cité within a cité, the special space within the museum called Cité des Enfants 5 – 12. It's all hands-on and kids can build a cardboard box from scratch; play with cameras in the TV studio; measure how fast they can run; create their own experiments with water; and much more. And it was jam-packed with kids! It seemed that whole schools of kids were making field trips to the museum today. As our son Alexandre reviews it:

    "The activities were superb, but there were too many kids, with not enough supervision, so it was was hard to enjoy the displays and experiments."

    It's probably best to visit Cité des Enfants in the summer, when school is out and there are not so many large groups visiting the museum.

    March 17 – Brasserie de l'Île Saint-Louis

    A server carries plates at the busy Brasserie de l'Île Saint-Louis

    Family-owned, traditional and authentic, Brasserie de l'Île Saint-Louis serves traditional brasserie food, and it's a tradition with us. We went there today for lunch. It's located on, you guessed it, île Saint-Louis, just behind Notre Dame Cathedral and across the pedestrian bridge.

    There's always been a restaurant on this site — that is, at least since the 19th century. The restaurant was purchased by the Guépratte family in 1953 and renamed Brasserie de l'Île Saint-Louis. It's now run by the third generation of the family, grandchildren of the original owners.

    This is the place to seek out traditional brasserie classics like herring and boiled potatoes slathered in butter and olive oil, perfect omelettes with house-made frites (which may be the best frites in Paris!), or a huge plate of charcuterie. And when you have a craving for the Alsatian dish of sausages and tangy sauerkraut – this is the place.

    It's the best way to fortify yourself before you head to Notre Dame to climb the 387 stairs to the top of the towers! (Once the towers reopen, that is.)

    • 55 Quai de Bourbon
    • 4th Arrondissement
    • Website…

    March 20 – The Top of the Tower

    The view from the top of the bell towers of Notre Dame Cathedral Paris

    No, not that tower. We mean the bell towers of Notre Dame. To get to the top you must climb a succession of narrow, winding stone staircases. (Probably best to skip it if you're claustrophobic!) But 387 steps later you have a gargoyle's view of central Paris, and the geography of the city becomes very clear.

    The entrance to the tower was outside the cathedral, on the northwest side of the building. Visitors were allowed inside in batches, and once you're at the top it's clear why. There's limited space at the top of the tower and there's only one narrow staircase, which serves both up and down traffic. Although we waited in line about half an hour, it was worth it for a chance to be at the top of this historic building smack dab in the most historic part of Paris.

    Skip the Line Tour of Notre Dame Cathedral Towers

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    Visitors marveling at the splendor of one of the grand rooms at Versailles

    Versailles Guided Day Tours

    Trade Paris bustle for royal grandeur on a guided Versailles tour. Skip the lines, wander the gardens, and peek inside Marie Antoinette’s private estate. History never looked this good.

    Plan Your Palace Day…

    Versailles Guided Day Tours

    Trade Paris bustle for royal grandeur on a guided Versailles tour. Skip the lines, wander the gardens, and peek inside Marie Antoinette’s private estate. History never looked this good.

    Plan Your Palace Day…

    March 22 – Springtime in Paris

    A flowering tree filled with sprintime white blossoms in the Jardin des Plantes

    It's definitely Spring here in Paris with trees showing their leaf buds, birdsong in the air, and flowers blooming. And then there's that perfect Paris weather we've heard about in so many songs. Along the banks of the Seine Parisians of all ages are promenading and basking in the sunlight. On Spring days like these the lineups at the museums are shorter than they were last week, since everyone wants to spend their days outdoors.

    We did go indoors long enough to to visit Musée d'Orsay to see the current exhibit of Degas nudes, and to spend time among some of the most famous Impressionist paintings. After the Orsay we crossed the Seine on the pedestrian bridge and spent time among the budding trees of the Tuileries Garden.

    March 23 – Arts et Metier

    Bookbinding tools at a workshop in Paris

    To say that the craft trades are flourishing in Paris is a bit of an overstatement. A couple of decades ago there were 20,000 or so traditional craftspeople still at work in Paris; today that number is probably only a couple of thousand. We had the chance to visit one of them at a small bookbinding studio, where books are made, repaired, and rebound using traditional methods. When working to restore old books, everything must be done by hand, and it's a very exacting process.

    Aude Quere, the bookbinder and owner of the studio, demonstrated two methods of repairing old books and restoring their binding, spine and even covers. These traditional methods employ carton (a special type of hardboard used for the covers), thread, muslim, and up to three different types of glue. Aude, a former travel agent, decided to turn her passion for old books into a career. She attended one of the four major crafts schools in Paris, this one specializing in trades such as bookbinding. The course took a year to complete.

    We were spellbound as she showed us how to stitch, shave, polish, glue, press and even hammer a book into shape. Good eyesight and hand-to-eye coordination are important assets to a skilled book binder. To repair a book using the traditional methods takes hours to complete can cost up to 400 euros. Aude said that most of her business comes from individual clients who wish to restore books that are family heirlooms.

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    Hotel sign in St-Germain-des-Pres, Paris

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    March 26 – A Tale of Two Flaneurs

    Parisians enoying perfect spring weather at Jardin du Luxembourg

    Sometimes the best plan in Paris is having no plan at all. Aimless wandering has long been part of the fabric of Parisian life. In fact, there's a name for it — a person who wanders is called a flaneur. The weather in Paris has been glorious for the past two weeks, and yesterday was no exception. The summer-like weather was the perfect backdrop to our day spent "flaneuring".

    We started the day in the Marais, stopping to admire the small Place du Marché-Ste-Catharine. The buds on the trees were just about to burst. We came to the river at Hotel de Sens, one of the last surviving medieval private mansions in Paris.

    As we crossed the Seine on Pont Marie, one of the thirty-seven bridges in Paris, we espied the symbol for Paris on one of the lamp posts; the symbol is a boat on the river. Once spotted, we noticed it everywhere. In the spirit of the flaneur, you don't rush. You drift. As we drifted across the Île St. Louis, we spotted the enormously tall and thin statue of Sainte Genevieve, the protector saint of Paris. She faces away from the city to warn aggressive forces who might be trying to enter the city up the Seine.

    We ambled in the 5th Arrondissement to visit the grounds of the College Polytechnique where students have studied since the 16th century. But our flaneur apex moment occurred when we discovered the steps from Midnight in Paris, where Gil waits for the car to transport him to the Jazz Age. These were on a church just behind the Pantheon.

    Now we were in the true Latin Quarter, where several colleges are located and students are everywhere. Our feet were flagging, it was time to stop and refuel. A charming cafe facing the Pantheon beckoned to us. Coupes de champagne, escargots and other delicacies were our reward.

    Revived, we continued down the hill to Jardin du Luxembourg where hordes of fellow flaneurs strolled or reclined around the central pond. One last stop at the church of St Sulpice to admire the the fountain, the famous Delacroix fresco of Jacob Wrestling the Angel, as well as the gnomon (or seasonal sundial) laid into the floor. You may remember that this church played an important role in The Da Vinci Code.

    4 arrondissements, 3 bridges, 5 colleges, 1 saint, 12 escargots, 2 coupes, 5 hours. Another perfect day in Paris.

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    Paris Essential #1:
    Romantic Dinner Cruise

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    The Eiffel Tower
    Skip the Line and Enjoy the Views of Paris from Above

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    The D-Day Beaches
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