In 2019 the Michelin Red Guide to Paris restaurants caused a shock when restaurant L'Astrance moved from three stars to two. For 2020, though, Michelin Red Guide has revealed a new addition to their galaxy — restaurant Kei has added a third star, making it the tenth 3-Star restaurant here in the City of Food. And, with chef Kei Kobayashi at the helm, this made headlines because it's also the first time a Japanese chef has won the highest award.
As Paris begins to re-open (deconfinement) following ten weeks of lockdown it's still largely uncertain how and when Paris restaurants, including those holding three Michelin stars, will be welcoming diners. After a period of privation, we're looking forward to rewarding ourselves with occasional dining at these acclaimed étoiles.
Check back here for updates as announcements are made. See the notes in each restaurant's entry below, although in general the information that has been shared by many of them is paltry.
Six or seven small dishes arrive at your table — and that's just the beginning. The wildly creative tapas give you a glimpse into the spirit of Gagnaire's hospitality. Pierre Gagnaire surprises even frequent diners at his modern dining room as his menus and recipes change frequently. If your banker won't let you order the à la carte menu, there is an evening tasting menu, a reasonably-priced lunch tasting menu, and a very pricey black truffle menu.
Pierre Gagnaire started his culinary career at the age of 14. He was awarded 3 Michelin stars in 1993. He has other restaurants in Paris and also around the globe — London, Las Vegas, Hong Kong, Tokyo… the list continues.
While closed during the Covid lockdown, the restaurant is undergoing renovations and will be closed until at least mid-September 2020. The reopening date is scheduled to be posted after August 20.
You know you've made it in life when you find yourself dining beneath the chestnut trees, on the terrace of the Napoleon III Pavilion, overlooking the manicured lawns of the Bois de Boulogne at Le Pré Catelan.
Chef Frederic Anton brought some serious culinary magic to the restaurant, earning 3 stars in a few short years. Le Pré Catelan, the flagship restaurant of the Lenôtre group (of the French pastry and cookery/pastry school empire), brought Frederic Anton on board in 1997, when it had a mere one star. Anton arrived to Le Pré after working directly with Joël Robuchon at his 3-star restaurant, Jamin in Paris.
Even if you can't afford to go à la carte, the lunch tasting menu offers up all the goodness Chef Anton is famous for — foie gras with Port and turnip; crab salad with lightly peppered grapefruit and Thai flavors; cod wrapped in seaweed and chestnut ice cream.
The restaurant will reopen on September 1. Reservations may now be made.
If you find yourself peckish after a stroll in the nearby Rodin Museum you might consider lunch at Arpège. That is, if you've planned ahead to make a reservation and if money is no object. Chef Alain Passard's vegetable-driven menu focuses on fresh produce harvested right from his own organic garden. The Gardener's Lunch is a good entry level tasting menu, or if you're feeling flush, book the Terre & Mer tasting menu.
Like most French chefs, Alain Passard started cooking when he was a young teenager. His serious cooking career started in 1980 at Duc d'Enghien (a kind of a French Las Vegas) where he perfected the famous recipe that he serves to this day — chaud-froid egg with maple and chives. He opened Arpege in 1986 and received three stars a decade later. Famous Paris chefs & a maitre d' who trained under Passard include David Toutain, Pascal Barbot, and Christophe Rohat of L'Astrance.
The restaurant, its website tells us, is temporarily closed due to Covid-19. No other information is available.
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A lover of the arts and fashion, Guy Savoy says that his restaurant — decorated in dark African wood, beige leather, and modern paintings — is his version of a 21st century inn. He describes his style as "casual" and extends the relaxed feeling into his dining room. His food falls between true luxury and ultimate simplicity, with signature dishes like artichoke and black truffle soup.
If you'd like to try dining at a 3-star restaurant but are wee bit intimidated, Guy Savoy used to offer a reasonable daily lunch menu for a mere €130. Malheureusement, unfortunately, that offer is no longer available in 2020, but we're hoping it will be re-instituted post-COVID.
Guy Savoy is closed until August 25, when it will reopen for dinner service. Reservations can be made (for August 25 and later) starting August 20, by phone at 01-43-80-40-61.
Chef Bernard Pacaud, one of the most discreet chefs of the Michelin set, runs one of Paris's best restaurants; some would argue it's the best restaurant. The moment you arrive under the magnificent arcades of the 17th-century Places des Vosges, you are ushered into the elegance of the Viennese-influenced interior.
There are a couple unique things about l'Ambrosie. Firstly, it is Paris' longest-running three-star restaurant, holding a star since 1988. Secondly, it's an à la carte only restaurant. Therefore, no moderately-priced tasting menus are offered.
Chef & owner Bernard Pacaud is now over 70 years old and runs the restaurant with his wife Danièle, with their son Mathieu. They opened l'Ambroisie in 1981 (the year their son was born) on the Left Bank; in 1986 they moved to the current location on Place des Vosges.
The restaurant re-opened on June 23, Reservations may now be made online or by telephone.
It's interesting to note that the inspectors at Michelin have pretty much ignored the thrashing review given to Le Cinq by The Guardian. Food critic Jay Rayner called it the worst meal he's had in his 18 years of reviewing. (While Rayner is often more of an entertainer than a food critic, we have to admit that the photos of the dishes he took look less than stellar.)
Le Cinq's Art Deco landmark room dates to 1928. It was the official HQ for General Eisenhower during the Liberation of Paris in 1944. Christian Le Squer joined the restaurant in 2014, with the hope of gaining them a third star, as he had done at Pavillon Ledoyen. (In 2002 Ledoyen was awarded three Michelin stars, an accolade Le Squer kept until his departure in 2014) He delivered on his promise, earning the two-starred Le Cinq a third star in the 2016 Michelin guide. At the time of this writing, a four-course lunch menu is €150, a bargain in a 3-star restaurant in Paris.
The website has not been updated about post-Covid plans. The online restaurant reservation engine doesn't show any dates available.
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Sometimes after a long period of stability, there is a seismic shift in the Michelin restaurants of Paris. In 2013 chef Yannick Alléno left Le Meurice after a stellar decade-long run. Le Meurice chose Alain Ducasse as his successor. Then another chef swap took place at the iconic Ledoyen. Christian Le Squer left Ledoyen and moved to Le Cinq. Finally, in a move that shocked the Paris food world, Yannick Alléno took the reins at Pavillon Ledoyen. The historic Ledoyen, one of city's oldest restaurants, has been around since 1792.
Chef Alléno trained in the best kitchens of Paris including Hotel Royal Monceau, Hotel Sofitel Sèvres, restaurant Drouant, and at Les Muses in Hotel Scribe where he maintained the restaurant's first star and earned a second star. In 2003, Alléno was appointed Chef de Cuisine at Le Meurice. At the time it had one Michelin star. A year later, a second star was awarded, and in 2007 le Meurice received a third.
Oddly, the website makes no mention of Covid planning or reopening plans. No booking dates yet available. Clearly Yannick is very stingy with information.
You could say we cut our teeth on Michelin restaurants dining at Chef Eric Frechon's Epicure restaurant at the Hotel Bristol. It was here that we splurged on a tasting menu at one of our first ever 3-star restaurant experiences. Back then the bill came to something like €240 per person, which seemed very indulgent. Pretty lightweight compared to today's Valentine's tasting menu that runs at €680. No matter, dining at a 3-star restaurant is never about counting euros, it's about creating longterm taste memories.
Our early memories were about the dozen or so well-dressed men servers silently bustling around the elegant room, offering breads from a special bread cart, refilling water in crystal glasses, and delivering compelling dishes in unison to the table. Today, the hotel boasts a total of four stars when you include its the one star held by its bistro, Faubourg 114.
Aprés Deconfinement Update — Website not updated about post-COVID plans, but the reservation engine shows tables are available starting June 1, 2020. Closed Saturdays and Sundays.
Epicure will reopen September 1, 2020. The online booking engine shows availability for every day after that. (It appears that you can only book ninety days in advance.)
How does France's superstar chef manage to earn and keep so many stars? He starts by choosing the best ingredients and by hiring the best staff and the best designers. Alain Ducasse's latest passion is the trilogy of fish, vegetables and grains, which translates as a focus on sustainably-caught seafood, organic produce, and very few meat-based dishes.
In recent years, along with the lighter menu, Ducasse has been moving to a more natural look and feel with a complete renovation of the restaurant, almost like a make-under. Gone are the massive gold chandeliers and the starched tablecloths.In their place are a flourish of minimalist crystal lights and polished oak tables.
"We look forward to seeing you in September!" a pop-up banner on the website proclaims. Sure enough, the online booking engine shows availability starting September 2. Monday to Friday, lunch and dinner.
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It was a revelation when future chef Kei Kobayashi discovered French gastronomy on Japanese television. At 21 years old he traveled to France to train in the best restaurants, including a seven-year stint with Christophe Moret at Alain Ducasse's restaurant at the Plaza Athénée. In 2011, alongside his wife, he opened his namesake restaurant and quickly won his first star, followed by a second star. Now in 2020 he has the distinction of being the first Japanese chef to win three stars in France.
At the time he won his third star Chef Kei offered lunch menus starting at €58, or €125 for a tasting menu. Who knows how long these prices will hold?
The restaurant seems to be open for reservations, although the website only says, "We will be delighted to welcome you from August 1st to 8th and from August 19th to 31st." Oddly, Kei does not do online booking at any time. We'd like to see some changes here.
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