Walking through the twenty-five green hectares of Parc des Buttes-Chaumont you might be shocked to learn that you are passing over one of the most notorious sites of medieval Paris — the Gibbet of Montfaucon. Not just a gallows (or "gibbet") in its own right, but a place where the bodies of people executed elsewhere in Paris were displayed for months, even years.
From that grisly beginning it's amazing that Parc des Buttes-Chaumont is now one of the most pleasant spots in the city, with a large expanse of grass, a lake, suspension bridge, and lot of paths, benches and playgrounds.
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The Lake at Buttes-Chaumont,, photo Wikimedia by Jean-Louis Vandevivere
The park takes its name from the bare hill (chauve-mont) that once occupied this site. It became a place where gypsum was mined, and where the limestone was quarried to be used in buildings in Paris and the US. Worse, though, was that the site also became a dumping ground for sewage, even horse carcasses. Luckily, during the 19th-century renovation of Paris under Napoleon III chauve-mont was chosen as a place for a large park, as part of the emperor's fascination with endowing Paris with green spaces.
The artificial lake created at that time wraps around a hilly central island. The lake attracts waterfowl and other birds and is stocked with fish. You will often seen nets and other paraphernalia used by students and researchers studying the lake.
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Temple de la Sibylle at Buttes-Chaumont, photo Wikimedia by BikerNormand
The 19th-century planners cleaned up the site and dumped in tons of soil to fill the pits left by the limestone mining operation. Then dynamite was used to "sculpt" the site into the craggy shapes you see today, including the 50-metre-high central hill with cliffs, an interior grotto, pinnacles, and arches. Up on top, overlooking the rest of the park is a small, round belvedere, based on the Roman Temple of Vesta in Italy. From the temple you can see a lovely view of Montmartre and the white cupolas of the Sacre-Coeur.
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Suspension Bridge at
How do you get to the temple on the island? There are a couple of bridges, including the delightful suspension bridge spanning 200 feet, 72 feet above the lake. Not only is the bridge fun to walk on and a delight to see, it has history — it was built by The Man himself, Gustave Eiffel, who was a famous bridge builder long before he erected the tower named after himself.
A hidden waterfall at Buttes-Chaumont, photo Wikimedia by Daniel Vorndran
Inside the craggy hill is a 65-foot-high cavern created when the park was a quarry. The park builders turned this into a fantasy grotto, complete with artificial stalactites, light & shadows, and a 60-foot-high waterfall. The grotto is a refreshing place to visit on a hot summer's day, with mist from the waterfall cooling the cavern.
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The well-used & appreciated lawn at Buttes-Chaumont, photo Wikimedia by Jean-Louis Vandevivere
If you want to find a place where the kids can run around on the grass, Parc des Buttes Chaumont is the place for you. For refreshment there are a dozen drinking fountains as well as three or four restaurants and snack bars. It's a great place for exploring, relaxing, walking, and jogging.
For kids and families there are loads of possibilities — from crossing the bridges and climbing to the belvedere to pony rides, playgrounds, puppet shows, and sandboxes. The park is a bit out of the way of the central Paris sights, but it's worth a visit.
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