Église Saint-Sulpice – History & Fountains In The Heart Of The Sixth

Eglise Saint-Sulpice is found in an unexpected open space in a busy quartier of the 6th Arrondissement, very near Jardin du Luxembourg. From Saint-Germain you might be walking along narrow Rue Saint-Sulpice — perhaps you're window shopping — and suddenly looming above you is the back side of an enormous church.

The street narrows even more as you skirt the church until suddenly, unexpectedly, the vista opens up onto a large place, bordered by chestnut trees, with one of most pleasing fountains in the city. You turn and look up at the mismatched towers of Saint-Sulpice.

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A Parish Church for Peasants

A Parish Church for Peasants

There's been a church here since the 13th century, when this part of Paris was more open fields than buildings. It was the more-famous (and nearby) abbey of Saint-Germain-des Prés that had built a church for the peasants living on its lands, shown in the picture above. (Just to give perspective, today it's only a 5-minute walk between the two churches.)

In the 17th century a new church was planned, in the same era that Jardin du Luxembourg was built. Like other Paris churches, construction took place over a long period — 224 years, to be exact — using a number of different architects. That's one of the reasons why it has its distinctive mismatched towers.

Église Saint-Sulpice Paris

Église Saint-Sulpice Paris

Saint-Sulpice has a number of claims to fame. It contains the largest fresco painted by DelacroixJacob Wrestling with the Angel. Appropriately, Delacroix himself wrestled with this painting for many years before he could finally complete it. The chapel that contains the painting is immediately to your right when you walk in. It's a bit dark in there, and it's not well lit, but it's worth visiting.

The church also has a fascinating giant sundial, or gnomon, built right into the structure and casting its light on the tiled floor. The gnomon was installed in the 1720s to provide a more accurate means of determining the spring equinox and, hence, the date of Easter. The church's massive pipe organ was originally built by noted organ builder François-Henri Clicquot in 1758 and rebuilt 100 years later using the original materials.

In recent years the church has become famous once again as a location in the book and film The Da Vinci Code. As it turns out, the filmmakers could not obtain permission to shoot inside the church, so they created a giant replica on a sound stage. Nonetheless, the book inspired more people to visit the church. Author Dan Brown took literary license (if you can call his work literature) by "discovering" that lines on the floor are the vestiges of a pagan temple.

This and other flights of fancy in The Da Vinci Code caused church authorites to erect a sign next to the gnomon that reads, in part —

"Contrary to fanciful allegations in a recent best-selling novel, this is not a vestige of a pagan temple. No such temple ever existed in this place…"

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The Fountain on Place Saint-Sulpice

The Fountain on Place Saint-Sulpice

The 17th through 19th centuries were busy times of growth and construction in the Saint-Sulpice quartier. While work on the church groaned on (from 1646 to 1870) a garden was laid out in the place in front of the facade in 1754. It was originally planned that the place would be surrounded by matching buildings set in a semicircle, but this never came to pass.

However, in the mid-1800s the current fountain was built, designed by Italian architect Joachim Visconti (who also did some work on the church facade) with statues of bishops by four different sculptors also representing the four cardinal points. It's one of the best fountains in all of the city, and we're very fond of its lions.

Saint-Sulpice Resources

Saint-Sulpice

  • 2 rue Garanciere
  • 6th Arrondissement
  • Eglise Saint Sulpice is served by nearby Metro Saint-Sulpice on Line 4.
  • In front of the church, across the place, is the Marie, or town hall, of the 6th Arrondissement

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